Let me break it down:
[ Touching ]
From what I gather, Americans seem to be of the untouchy sort compared to the rest of the globe. Here, friends hang on each other, arms slung around the other's shoulders. While this isn't uncommon in America, the difference comes from doing so in public, walking down the street. Same-sex friends (presumably friends) hold hands, grab on, and are supported by each other so unabashedly in public.
(On a side note, several couples here call each other "babe" with surprising frequency! I find it quite humorous and slightly reminiscent of The Lego Movie :))
[ Nudity ]
This one I am still trying to get over. While I had read that Nepal was more conservative--and certainly, this is the case in clothes (next)--the word conservative needs a bit of redefining. On the way home from work once, a man was sitting pant-less on a wall, legs splayed, at eye level. Breastfeeding, without cover, is normal in public areas. It is, in a way, beautiful to see people unashamed of their bodies.
[ Clothing ]
On the other hand, the body is usually more covered than in America. This is, in large part, most likely due to the intensity of the sun and insects. Another part of it probably lies in tradition, as traditional clothing covers the entirety of the legs, torso, and arms in mostly loose-fitting, light, and airy cotton. Something that I have noticed just recently is that women in the city go about 50/50 with Western wear or traditional wear, but that I rarely see a man in traditional wear unless it is at a temple (or in a Nepali topi, a kind of hat). Most men in the city go about 50/50 between jeans and slacks, with very few people wearing shorts or anything above the knees, let alone above the ankles! And when it comes to salwar kurtas or saris, the colors and patterns are so bright and varied. It seems like people here have a really wide selection in fabrics and expression of tastes through the varied clothing styles.
[ Respect ]
I believe the Nepali language creates a culture of inclusion and respect. Namaste, both the greeting and farewell here, literally translates to "I bow to the divine in you." It is this deep recognition of a worthiness and connectedness in each person that makes it difficult to wrong them. The Nepali address each other as sister (older sister, the one I use most, is didi) or brother (older brother is dai), no matter your relation to that person. This reverence is taken a step higher when it comes to family. Family is so important here, and most children/ adults live with their parents until they are married. Even after they are married, ties with the family remain stronger than what would normally be observed in the U.S.
[ Religion ]
Nepal is over 80% Hindu--it was even officially a Hindu nation until 2006, when Nepal became secular. Nonetheless, the Hindu religion is incredibly prominent here. Temples are everywhere. People wear red tika on their foreheads, among other religiously related symbols, that are so ingrained in the culture now that it makes me wonder how religious these symbols are anymore. Buddhism is also deeply linked in Nepal's past, and many Buddhist shrines and temples are alongside or mixed with Hindu ones. From my perception, there are not many "religious fanatics" like we have in America: no diehards killing others because of religion or shunning family members if they draw from another religion's beliefs. Numerous Hindus also like Buddhist teachings, and each person tends to find the mix and intensity of following (or not following) rituals that works for them.
The only anomaly to what I've written so far is that non-Hindus aren't allowed in some of the Hindu temples. While this sticks out from the usually inclusive nature of the Nepali, it is understandable (even if not always desirable).
[ Music ]
The Nepali have follow a repertoire of Nepali, Bollywood, and Western music. To my surprise, a lot of people here have an affinity for some of the classics: Guns 'N Roses, Pink Floyd, Bob Dylan, John Lennon, The Beatles. Also to my surprise, American music plays on some of the radio stations here. To me, it is so odd to think that they get this inundation of American music, when I could never find a station from Nepal, let alone Asia, back in Iowa. Also, Pandora is a no-go here because of licensing restrictions!
Oh! And I almost forgot! There are mini-bands here, and I couldn't describe what they look like (as I only ever hear them), but they are this awful (to my ungrateful ears, granted) cacophony of noise. These horn-like things play chords that I swear don't actually exist, while drums beat away without--from what I can tell!--actually keeping a beat or a rhythmic pattern of any sort. It is so mysterious, for I'll wake up to them, or hear them in the middle of the day, or not at all, and I can't tell their schedule or their purpose (since it is not tonally pleasing). The people I've talked to say it is for weddings...but why they would want this type of...music...I'm not sure! :)
[ Food ]
The food here is not bad! I can't say that I am in love with authentic Nepali food (well, except for momos! But I have been told that those aren't truly Nepali), but it is still good nonetheless. Rice is a staple here, served with every meal and often accompanied by a curry or soup; dal bhat is what I would deem the national cuisine (and perhaps tea the non-alcoholic national drink). Where I live, however, is known as "Restaurant Road" and any sort of item is available within a block or two. I hear there is really good pizza nearby that I am looking forward to! Others have said that the food here is not as spicy as you might find in India or Bangladesh (thank goodness, because I can't handle some of it anyways! Although I am getting better! :)). In the villages usually only two meals are eaten a day (and usually of dal bhat), but the city tends to follow the same lines as Westerners. Except that fast food doesn't really exist here. Granted, some restaurants claim they are fast food (but some public buses are named Facebook...I'm fairly certain it is just to attract Westerners), but the closest thing is road-side stands. I haven't seen a restaurant that I would see in America yet!
Another custom that I think is part of the Asian culture in general is the sharing of food. At my lunch table, people pass around whatever they brought, and every day is like a mini buffet where everyone eats off of everyone else's plates. It took me a little bit to get over the initial "this is mine and that is yours" mentality, but it really makes me feel like part of the group now when we eat together and don't need to ask to try somebody else's food. It is also a great way to try other Nepali food! :)
Another custom that I think is part of the Asian culture in general is the sharing of food. At my lunch table, people pass around whatever they brought, and every day is like a mini buffet where everyone eats off of everyone else's plates. It took me a little bit to get over the initial "this is mine and that is yours" mentality, but it really makes me feel like part of the group now when we eat together and don't need to ask to try somebody else's food. It is also a great way to try other Nepali food! :)
[ Day Schedule ]
You might have caught this from a few of my previous blog posts: the sun wakes up early here! It also tucks itself into the horizon earlier than at home. Starting off at around 5 or 5:30 am, the workday begins early in the villages, but ends when the sun goes down around 7 pm. My work schedule is the one Dolly Parton sang about--9 to 5, Monday to Friday. Also, dinner is eaten much later than what I am used to. The food often rolls out after 7 pm, well, really more towards 8 pm. It isn't too late, just different for me since it can be quite awhile after the sun goes down before eating again.
A point that came up just today is that most Nepalis don't really "honor" the weekend like we do in America. Where I am from, people always ask what you did over the weekend, where you went, and how it was. In Nepal, people often work or stay home over the weekends (not all, of course, but the culture isn't as much about going out and not working on the weekends).
A point that came up just today is that most Nepalis don't really "honor" the weekend like we do in America. Where I am from, people always ask what you did over the weekend, where you went, and how it was. In Nepal, people often work or stay home over the weekends (not all, of course, but the culture isn't as much about going out and not working on the weekends).
[ Housing ]
Besides the aforementioned observation of long-term family residence, housing differs here in the fact that it is so open. Houses are often behind or above small storefronts that seem to line every major street. As Karen told me, her daughter liked it here because you could see what everyone did for a living, what everyone bought for their houses, how everyone lived. In America, she compared, everyone is closed off, sealed away from each other and the world in an aura of privacy and secrecy. Many houses are very small; real estate is very expensive in Kathmandu, and those who already had deeds to the land sometimes rent out rooms of their house for extra money. It also means that it is difficult to move to the valley and have really good housing unless you have quite a bit of money in the first place (which usually isn't the case for many). The buildings would also be a bland, flat and angular concrete complex, except that colorful pastels adorn many of the buildings, giving the valley a more lively --or as the author from Dirty, Sacred Rivers says, a wedding cake -- look!
That wraps up all I have right now! Please, enjoy this video Ashok showed me! :) It is Happy by Pharrell Williams with dancing and scenes from Kathmandu! :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYZvgd71XLY
Peace and love,
Abby
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